LONDON — The building that houses Rules, London’s oldest restaurant, has been donated to the National Trust, Europe’s largest conservation charity. The donation aims to preserve the iconic eatery, which has served patrons since its establishment in 1798.
Rules began as an oyster bar founded by Thomas Rule during a tumultuous time in Europe following the French Revolution. Over the years, it has survived significant events including the British Empire’s expansion, the Blitz in World War II, and previous plans to demolish the building for urban reconfiguration.
The restaurant’s menu has evolved to feature traditional British dishes and has attracted a number of high-profile guests, ranging from Charles Dickens and Charlie Chaplin to David Bowie and Madonna. It was also known as a rendezvous point for King Edward VII and his companions.
The recent donation was made by J-P Mayhew, who has owned the building at 34-35 Maiden Lane in Covent Garden for about 40 years. Mayhew expressed his belief that the National Trust is best suited to protect Rules, stating, “The Trust will protect this place in a way that no one else could, safeguarding its bricks and mortar, its famous interior and its invisible atmosphere, too.”
The National Trust called the 11 million-pound ($14 million) donation an essential step in preserving a site where “kings dined and writers and politicians plotted.” Along with the building, the donation includes visitor books, menus, caricatures, photographs, stained glass, and signs, as well as annual rental income from the restaurant to fund conservation efforts.
Hilary McGrady, the director-general of the National Trust, described Rules as a unique example of “living heritage,” emphasizing its historic significance and lasting traditions. “It has defied the odds to be standing here today, doors still open and treacle sponge still on the menu,” McGrady said.
The ambiance within Rules is reminiscent of a bygone London, featuring plush interiors and a menu rich with traditional offerings such as steak and kidney pie and sticky toffee pudding. The restaurant also features rooms named after notable figures, including poet John Betjeman, who famously defended its significance during a threat of demolition in 1971.
Ricky McMenemy, the restaurant’s proprietor for the past 35 years, will now operate as a commercial tenant under the National Trust. He expressed optimism for the partnership, noting, “As an independent business, it gives us both the security and peace of mind that our home will be in very good hands and be protected and secure going forward.”
